How Long Does it Take for Hyperpigmentation to Fade

Have you ever gotten an acne breakout or eczema flare that leaves a dark mark that takes forever to fade? Have you wondered how to get rid of this dark mark? Are dark spots permanent?

These dark marks, spots, or patches are all called hyperpigmentation, which affects a lot of people. 

In general, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, it takes about 6 to 12 months for hyperpigmentation to completely fade. But wait, don’t get upset yet. There are some things you can do to help speed up the fading process.


What do you need to know about your hyperpigmentation?

The first thing you need to know is what caused the hyperpigmentation in the first place. 

There is almost always a reason why a dark mark appears on your skin so your goal is to find this out. Some common skin conditions that can leave dark marks behind include acne, eczema, razor bumps (medical term = folliculitis), skin irritation, or allergic reactions. So when a dark mark appears after your skin becomes angry and inflamed from one of these skin conditions, it is usually called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

There are also other types of hyperpigmentation that are not caused by angry, itchy, or painful breakouts like acne or razor bumps. Such skin conditions can be due to something happening deeper within you, like hormonal changes. Skin conditions like melasma, acanthosis nigricans, or a type of skin cancer called melanoma can fall into this category of hyperpigmentation.

That’s why it’s super important to have a board-certified dermatology provider look at your hyperpigmentation, especially when you are not sure how or why it appeared. 

There are also skin conditions that are really hard to improve and may even be permanent. For example, dermal hyperpigmentation can look like darkened skin that is blue-greyish and is in the deeper layers of the skin. Exogenous ochronosis can be caused by using skin care products that contain hydroquinone for longer than what’s recommended by skincare professionals. Both of these conditions may be permanent.

Knowing what caused the hyperpigmentation can help you treat it more effectively and prevent it from happening again in the future. If you don't know or if you're not sure what it is, it's best to go to a professional for help (if you have access to one).

Preventing hyperpigmentation

Once you know what caused the hyperpigmentation, you can work on preventing it from happening again. If you have dark marks, or you've gotten them in the past and are worried about getting them again, prevention is the best thing to do. 

The ultimate way to do this is to wear sunscreen on your skin. Sunscreen stops the current dark marks from getting darker and prevents more dark marks in the future. It also helps protect your skin from developing skin cancers and early aging so it's important to wear it, and reapply it, every day. A good sunscreen will have an SPF (or sun protection factor) of 30 or more.

Now I know it's hard to find a sunscreen that does not make your melanated skin look ashy and like your cousin is Casper the friendly ghost, but there are a few sunscreens out there that can protect our skin without forming that annoying white cast.

Speeding up the fading process: Simpler (and less expensive) ways

After finding out what caused the hyperpigmentation, and you have sunscreen you can wear every day, the next step is to add skincare products that help fade the hyperpigmentation.

There are important ingredients that you’ll want to look for when searching for skincare products. These ingredients have been proven to help fade dark marks in different ways.  Some of these ingredients are (in no specific order): 

  • Retinoids

  • Glycolic acid

  • Azelaic acid

  • Alpha arbutin

  • Tranexamic acid

  • Hydroquinone

  • Mandelic acid

  • Lactic acid

  • Vitamin C

  • Kojic acid

Knowing what types of ingredients to look for helps narrow down which products to add to your skincare routine. Deciding on which products are best for you depends on your skin needs and preferences. 

If your skin is more sensitive, you may want to start with a more gentle ingredient that still works well, like mandelic acid or lactic acid. 

If you're someone like me, who prefers to not have a lot of products or steps in their skincare routine, you might like products that contain a combination of two or more of the above key ingredients. 

The best hyperpigmentation-fighting product will be different from one person to the next so use the above list of key ingredients as a guide.  

Speeding up the fading process: More advanced ways

So what if you have tried a ton of skincare products and have spent (or even wasted) a lot of money and time trying to fade your hyperpigmentation with little to no improvement? You’ve used the products consistently for several weeks or months — you may have even emptied out the container— and wore sunscreen but you barely notice a change. What do you do? 

If you haven't already, it'd be good to go see a dermatologist who can properly diagnose the hyperpigmentation and can recommend more effective and powerful products to try. 

There are also some really effective in-office treatments that may work for you, but please know these treatments may be a bit expensive.  These treatments are often done by licensed skin professionals, like estheticians, nurses, physician assistants, and dermatologists.

Some of the in-office hyperpigmentation treatments include: 

  • Chemical peels like glycolic acid, Melanage Peel System, and VI Peel treatments

  • Microdermabrasions

  • Laser treatments that are safe to use on black skin — laser brands like Picosure, Qswitch

Generally, it’s best to schedule a consultation with a licensed skin care professional who has a lot of experience treating our darker skin and can help guide you toward the best treatments for you.

Conclusion

Hyperpigmentation is a frustrating skin condition to deal with.  Although it can take 6 to 12 months for hyperpigmentation to fade there are some types of hyperpigmentation that may take longer to fade or be permanent. That's why I keep stressing the importance of learning exactly what’s causing the hyperpigmentation in the first place. 

Once you do this, and are consistent with applying sunscreen, you can create a plan to try to fade them as fast as possible. This plan differs from person to person depending on your skin needs, preferences, access to licensed skincare professionals, and budget.

I wish there was a way to get rid of all dark marks and patches in one or two days but we haven't gotten to that point yet. Hopefully that day will come soon. 

In your experience, what has helped fade your hyperpigmentation? What hasn’t helped? Also, is there something I mentioned that you want to learn more about? Let me know!

If you found this to be valuable, share it with someone.

Take care,

Mimi

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